Hi there and welcome back to the Hairy Truths.
This week I placed a poll up on my instagram account to see what you wanted to read about this week and the result actually came back 50:50, so I have decided to write this one first as it was the first that got voted for and next weeks instalment will be to go through and untangle the theories and ideas around salon vs high-street care and styling products.
So this week whilst we make the most of the beautiful sunshine here in the UK we are going to talk about how often you really should visit your stylists for your trims, colour touch ups and treatments in order to keep your hair in tip top condition and ensure it's as healthy as can be along the way.
Cutting - 6-10 weeks depending...
As briefly mentioned in last weeks instalment Does cutting your hair make it grow you should really have your hair trimmed every 6-8 weeks to ensure all split ends are removed and do not develop further, as this can lead to thin and fragile ends over time if left.
If you are growing your hair and you treat it well; this means you're following all your stylists product and care advice, then, you may be able to stretch your visit to 8 - 10 weeks but this is really best to check with your stylist as not all hair types can stretch that long. Finer hair may not be able to do this as they have 50% less protein make-up and internal structur than thicker hair types meaning they are more prone to damage and ware away quicker. So if you have very fine hair it is important you visit your stylist religiously every 6 weeks to keep your hair in as healthy condition as possible.
Blonde Root Touch Ups - 4 weeks
Everyone always refers to blondes as being high maintenance, and they are! Keeping your blonde fresh is not an easy task and requires regular trips to the salon and a good home-care regime.
Firstly - your touch ups need to be every 4 weeks. This is to ensure your regrowth is at the optimum growth to avoid banding. The area needs to be around 1cm to ensure you get a nice clean and even result due to the heat from your scalp effecting your final colour result, further than this will create bands to form where the colour/bleach lifts slightly differently due to the heat indifferences and those bands will be warmer and/or darker than desired so if you leave your intervals longer than 4 weeks your stylist has to allow for this. The area furthest away will need applying first and then your stylist will need to go back through and apply a new batch of colour to your root area ensuring an even lift, this requires more colour and double the application time on your visit and will therefore probably be reflected in the cost too.
Secondly - your home-care, Never ever cheat and go cheap, Blonde hair endures more stress than other colour so your home-care is even more imperative and will require more looking after than others, and sadly this is where most people slack. You've paid for your colour please don't neglect it now. Using lower grade products will leave your hair feeling dry, dull and brittle as they will not give your hair what it needs, your colour will have a lower longevity and when you re-visit the salon for your touch up your hair will have become more porous which will mean your colour will take unpredictably and your stylist will have to allow and plan for this when creating your colour formula. Your stylist can only give you the information you need to ensure you get the most from your beautiful blonde hair, what you do with that information is up to you. Those that follow their stylists advice reap the rewards with their blonde hair and future visits to the salon.
Tint Root Touch Ups - 6 weeks
Colours on darker levels can benefit from 6 week intervals as a realistic timeframe to ensure optimum colour results. Longer than this will require your stylist to apply mid range area first, allow to develop for a short time and then go back through and apply from your scalp with a fresh mix, Meaning more time is required and more product so will most likely be reflected in the cost.
If you stick to 6 weeks you may find, like my guests do, that you won't need your whole colour refreshing so usually my guests can expect to have 2-3 regrowth sessions before a full refresh is needed. This is when you follow your stylists aftercare advice to keep your colour for longer.
High and Low- lights in foils - 6-8 weeks
Foiling allows for heat to be retained a little better than non-foiling techniques so you can get away with leaving your visits a tad longer, 6 weeks is best but sometimes you can get away with up-to 8 weeks. Longer than this may require more time and product being used due to the heat indifferences so again will most likely cost more too.
Balayage, Ombré & baby lights - 20 - 36 weeks (6-9 months)
These low maintenance techniques usually cost more to begin with due to the timing they can take to do initially and the amount of product that is used during your visit however they have a much longer interval period between touch ups. This is due to their perfect natural grow out pattern and blended results so this means you can go as long as you like until you have your balayage / baby lights brought back up again. On average this is usually every 6-9 months for my guests.
However this doesn't mean you can neglect your hair in between, you still need to take proper care of your hair and have your trims as well as refresh your tones if your choose too. Many of my guests have fun with fashion tones between their 'full works' visit.
Fashion Tones - 1-8 weeks
The best thing about fashion tones is that they change so frequently and keep you fresh. Usually they are on a much more pastel tonal level meaning the time in which they last is very low and very difficult to give a timeframe on their longevity. Usually they last 1-4 weeks depending on their strength and the health of your hair. Those with stronger tonal values will last much longer, usually around 8 weeks. Sometimes longer than this.
If your are like me though, this allows for you to have fun without too much commitment, Peach this week, violet next and silver three weeks later, the choice really is yours and you can have as much fun as you like with it.
Conditioning Treatments - 1-12 weeks
This is a difficult one as it depends on the health of your hair and what treatment we are discussing, however, from my menu you have a choice of 3:
So there you have it, a guide to how often you should see your stylist. Your visit intervals will completely alter depending on what colours you have and your home-care so your stylist is always the best person to ask to ensure you are following the best timeframe and hair journey for you.
Until next time : Happy hair day
Welcome back, What a week it has been, straight back into it following all the festivities and new years break. I had a fantastic time in Italy, thank you for asking, recuperated nicely and the views were amazing as always. So, what are we talking about this week you may be wondering (or not, the title is a little clue after all).
Do you leave your conditioner in overnight? You can be honest, you won't be judged. Maybe you have read it somewhere and are considering giving it a go if you haven't already. Before you do, you need to read todays instalment of The Hair Truth
Unless your conditioner advises this - DO NOT LEAVE IT IN OVERNIGHT
OK I understand this is a bold statement but let me explain why this is.
I want you to take a moment and think of your skin for a moment bare with me it will all make sense in the end; Would you put one of those thick body clay treatments on and leave it on overnight? No,
Besides causing yourself more washing or being uncomfortable all night, is it because your skin could become sore? Or that you may look like a prune come morning? Did you know the reason for this is that you would be - in effect - suffocating your skin.
I needed to get you thinking about the fact your would be keeping your skin moist for hours on end whilst you dream about dancing with the fairies.
Your nails are are a better example though; they reach their water holding capacity at around 10 minutes in water and at 15 minutes the hardened keratin begins to break down and they become soft, porous and brittle.
Why is this important?
Our nails are made from the same hardened keratin that the cuticle layer (protective outer layer of your hair) is.
So a similar thing happens to your hair:
By leaving conditioner/a treatment on your hair overnight you are in fact causing the keratin protein bonds to start breaking down and soften, this overtime causes breakage, becomes brittle and fragile, hair becomes porous (creating holes in the hairs internal structure), dries out and decreases in its tensile strength (it's elasticity), and curly heads sadly you will loose your curl pattern
It's just a BIG no!
Let think back to our skin again; using a mineral clay or any deep moisturising treatment we are usually advised to put them on for around 30 minutes and we feel amazing afterwards, our skin is so soft and nourished because it has absorbed all the nourishment and then we may moisturise after to lock it all in (or we are supposed to anyway).
Hair is much the same, If your treatments advises you 2-5 minutes (many of our treatments are 2-5 for home use) then 2-5 minutes is all it needs. This is the time it takes for your hair to get the most from that treatment, any longer doesn't mean it gets more from it, quite the opposite but up-to an hour is just a waste of 55 minutes however it won't really cause any harm, One of our brilliant reconstructive treatments takes 20 minutes and is 4 steps of 5 minute treatments in tandem, Leaving any treatment on overnight or all day however is really damaging to your hair. Which I'm guessing is probably the opposite of what you're trying to achieve or at least I hope it is.
You are right though - to try and replenish those nutrients in your hair from time to time, but you do this with a good treatment once weekly - usually timed between 2-30 minutes depending on the treatment itself and following with a hair oil and/or a leave in treatment which both are designed to be left on the hair.
Hopefully reading this will save some of you from causing unnecessary damage and stress to your hair, which can take months to repair.
Thank you for reading this weeks instalment. I look forward to hearing from you and seeing you again next week.
Until next time : Happy hair day
Nikki Iannetta ?
In case you skim read - the important bits
prolongued damp conditions are damaging to your hair, nails and skin.
Hair and nails are similar in a way you wouldn't expect.
Do not leave conditioners or treatments on overnight.
Use treatments as per their instructions once a week for the time specified
Always rinse them off very well
You can follow with a good hair oil or leave in conditioner if you want too.
Do you really wash your hair correctly and effectively? Last week we explained how you should be cleansing your scalp and hair properly.
Hi there and welcome to The Hairy Truths.